Cosmetic compositions based on organic silicon compounds comprising at least a non basic solubilising function

ABSTRACT

The invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least 0.02 weight percent relative to the composition total weight, one or several water soluble organosilicon compounds, having one, two or three silicon atoms, at least a non-basic solubilizing function and at least two hydroxyl groups or groups capable of being hydrolyzed per molecule. The invention is applicable to hair care compositions.

The present invention relates generally to aqueous cosmeticcompositions, in particular for treating the hair, comprisingunpolymerized or relatively unpolymerized, water-soluble organosiliconcompounds.

It is common practice to use organic compounds such as polymers toprepare cosmetic compositions for treating the hair. For example,polymers are used that give, on drying, solid materials for fixing thehairstyle in a shape. Such materials are also used to give shape-holdingeffects. Polymer compounds are also used, such as polysiloxanes, to givehaircare effects, particularly to damaged hair or hair that is difficultto disentangle. Cosmetic compositions containing these polymers areapplied to the hair and left to dry or rinsed out before proceeding todry.

The use of polymer compounds presents many drawbacks.

The first drawback lies in the fact that, when the polymers are used incompositions above a certain concentration, the compositions obtainedare difficult to apply due to the increase in the viscosity of thecompositions. This difficulty in applying the compositions leads to thehair being overloaded in certain areas and thus to cosmetic defects andalso involves certain parts of the hair receiving less of thecompositions, which, in the end, induces a reduced effect on theseareas.

The second drawback lies in the fact that these compositions areoccasionally difficult to use. Specifically, polymer compounds of lowwater solubility require the use of an organic solvent or a mixture oforganic solvents. The use of an organic solvent entails severalproblems, for instance environmental problems and problems affecting thecosmetic quality of the hair.

To overcome these drawbacks, attention has thus turned toward the use ofpolymer compounds that have been made partially water-soluble. Thus,certain polymer compounds may be used in water without adding anyco-solvent. In this case, the limitation lies in the fact that thesepolymer compounds are partially, or even totally, removed by rinsing thehair. Consequently, in this case, the effect due to the polymercompounds is very limited after rinsing. Ultimately, this limits theeffect of rinse-out treatments (shampooing, conditioning), but alsoreduces the advantage of such compositions used in leave-in mode(hairsetting lotions, mousses, lacquers, etc.) since the user loses theeffect acquired by the treatment when the user washes the hair.

Efforts have thus been devoted toward finding compounds for formulatingcosmetic compositions that can be used in water and that retain theireffect when the hair is rinsed.

Thus, U.S. Pat. No. 4,344,763 (Gillette) describes cosmetic compositionscomprising an organosiloxane monomer such as an aminoalkylalkoxysilaneand an organic titanate dissolved in an alcohol.

More specifically, the patent describes a process for shaping the hairwhich consists in moistening the hair with water and then in applying asolution containing, in isopropanol, from 0.5% to 15% by weight of anaminoalkylalkoxysilane and from 0.005% to 1.5% by weight of an organictitanate, and then in placing the hair in the desired shape.

According to this process, it is particularly recommended to keep theisopropanol solution protected from any moisture.

A process has also been disclosed, in EP 113 992, for simultaneouslyfixing and conditioning the hair using a composition that is stable inthe absence of moisture, containing (A) a siloxane oligomer containingat least one nitrogen-hydrogen bond, and (B) an anhydrous, readilyhydrolyzable additive chosen from titanates, zirconates, vanadates,germanates, and mixtures thereof.

The solvent for the composition is an aliphatic hydrocarbon or analiphatic halohydrocarbon, preferably 1,1,1-trichloroethane.

After applying the composition to the hair, the hair is placed in ahumid atmosphere so as to bring about the crosslinking of the siloxaneoligomer and of the readily hydrolyzable anhydrous additive.

There is thus a need for a stable cosmetic composition, in particularfor treating the hair, which is essentially aqueous and which makes itpossible to obtain a sufficient cosmetic effect, in particular for thehair, in rinse-out or leave-in mode.

One subject of the present invention is thus stable, aqueous cosmeticcompositions, in particular cosmetic compositions for hair treatment andhaircare, which overcome the drawbacks of the prior art.

More specifically, one subject of the present invention is stable,aqueous cosmetic compositions for hair treatment arid haircare, whichgive the hair a long-lasting styling effect and a pleasant feel.

The inventors have found, surprisingly, that it is possible to formulatecosmetic compositions not requiring the use of an organic solvent andhaving an effective, rinse-fast cosmetic effect, without the risk ofproblems of the hair being charged in the event of overloading, by usingin these compositions unpolymerized or relatively unpolymerized,water-soluble organosilicon compounds comprising at least one nonbasicsolubilizing chemical function.

It has been observed that when such compositions are applied, pronouncedcosmetic effects are obtained without any problems in the event ofoverloading, and the effects of which are very rinse-fast and wash-fast.

According to the invention, the cosmetic compositions, in particular fortreating the hair, comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueousmedium, at least 0.02% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition, of one or more unpolymerized or relatively unpolymerized,water-soluble organosilicon compounds chosen from organosilanescomprising one silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or threesilicon atoms, the organosilicon compounds also comprising at least onenonbasic solubilizing chemical function and at least two hydrolyzable orhydroxyl groups per molecule.

The organosilicon compounds according to the invention are capable offorming, in aqueous medium, a nonhybrid compound, afterself-condensation and evaporation of the support. The expression“nonhybrid compound” means a compound that is chemically homogeneous asregards silicon, that is to say that it contains no other additionalmetallic or organometallic species.

The unpolymerized or relatively unpolymerized organosilicon compoundsthat are useful in compositions of the present invention are chosen fromwater-soluble organosilanes comprising one silicon atom andwater-soluble organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms,preferably two silicon atoms. They must also comprise at least onenonbasic solubilizing chemical function, and preferably only one suchnonbasic solubilizing chemical function. The nonbasic solubilizingchemical function may be any nonbasic function and in particular anynonamino function that facilitates the solubilization of theorganosilicon compound in water. Among the nonbasic solubilizingfunctions that may be mentioned are carboxylic acids and their salts,quaternary ammoniums, sulphonic acids and their salts and poly(alkylether) residues such as poly(oxyalkylene) residues, for example,poly(ethylene oxide) and poly(propylene oxide) and polyglycols,polyacrylamides and acrylamides, and polyols (including naturalpolyols).

The organosilicon compounds that are useful in the compositions of thepresent invention also comprise at least two hydrolyzable or hydroxylgroups per silicon atom. The hydrolyzable groups are preferably alkoxy,aryloxy or halogen groups. They may also optionally comprise otherchemical functions such as acid or amine functions.

When the unpolymerized or relatively unpolymerized silicon compoundaccording to the invention comprises a nonhydrolyzable group, this groupmay also comprise a chemical function such as an acid or amine function.

The organosilanes that are preferred according to the inventioncorrespond to the formula:

in which:

-   -   R′ represents a halogen or an OR₁ or R₀ group;    -   R″ represents a halogen or an OR₂ or R′₀ group;    -   R″′ represents a halogen or an OR₃ or R″₀ group;    -   at least two of the groups R′, R″ and R″′ being other than        groups R₀, R′₀ and R″₀;

R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-basedgroup comprising a nonbasic, in particular nonamino, solubilizingchemical function;

R₁, R₂, R₃, R₀, R′₀ and R″₀ represent, independently of each other, asaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groupoptionally bearing additional nonbasic solubilizing chemical groups, R₁,R₂ and R₃ also possibly denoting hydrogen.

Preferably, R₁, R₂, R₃, R₀, R′₀ and R″₀ represent a C₁ to C₁₂ alkylgroup, a C₆ to C₁₄ aryl group, a (C₁ to C₈)alkyl (C₆ to C₁₄)aryl groupand a (C₆ to C₁₄)aryl(C₁ to C₈)alkyl group.

The organosiloxanes that are preferred in the compositions of thepresent invention may be represented by the formula:

in which:

-   -   R″ represents a halogen or a group OR₂;    -   R, R₂, R′ and R″′ are defined as above, and R″″ represents a        halogen, an OR₄ group or an R″′₀ group;    -   R₅ represents a halogen, an OR₆ group or an R″″ group;    -   R₄, R₆, R″′₀ and R″″₀ represent a saturated or unsaturated,        linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group optionally bearing        additional nonbasic solubilizing chemical groups, R₄ and R₆ also        possibly denoting hydrogen; at least one of the groups R″′, R″″        and R₅ being other than R″₀, R″′₀ and R″″₀.

Preferably, R₄, R₆, R₀, R″₀, R″′₀ and R″″₀ represent a C₁ to C₁₂ alkylgroup, a C₆ to C₁₄ aryl group, a (C₁ to C₈)alkyl(C₆ to C₁₄)aryl group ora (C₆ to C₁₄)aryl(C₁ to C₈)alkyl group; and R₅ preferably represents aC₁ to C₁₂ alkyl group, a C₁ to C₁₂ alkoxy group, a C₆ to C₁₄ aryl group,a (C₁ to C₈)alkyl(C₆ to C₁₄)aryl group or a (C₆ to C₁₄)aryl(C₁ toC₈)alkyl group.

Preferably, the halogen is chlorine.

The groups R are preferably chosen from carboxylic acids and theirsalts, quaternary ammoniums, sulphonic acids and their salts, andpolyalkyl ethers.

Among the carboxylic acid functions and their salts, mention may be madeof saturated monoacid radicals such as acetic acid, propionic acid,butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid and isovaleric acid,saturated diacids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid,glutaric acid and adipic acid, unsaturated monoacids such as acrylicacid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid andcitraconic acid, carbocyclic acids such as benzoic acid, phthalic acid,isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid, hydroxy and alkoxy carboxylicacids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and salicylicacid, and salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts andmore particularly the sodium and potassium salts of these acids.

Among the quaternary ammoniums functions that may be mentioned aretetraalkylammoniums and quaternary alkylarylammoniums, the alkyl and/oraryl groups possibly comprising functions such as acid, hydroxyl, amineand halogen functions, and cyclic and heterocyclic quaternary ammoniums.

Among the sulphonic acids and their salts, mention may be made ofalkylsulphonic acids such as methylsulphonic acid, arylsulphonic acidssuch as phenylsulphonic acid, alkoxysulphonic acids such asethoxysulphonic acid, alkylaryl- and arylalkylsulphonic acids, and saltsof these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts of these acids andmore particularly the sodium and potassium salts of these acids.

Among the alkyl ether residues that may be mentioned arepoly(oxyethylenes), poly(oxypropylenes), poly(oxytetramethylenes) andpolyglycols such as poly(ethylene glycol) and poly(propylene glycol).

Another important aspect of the compositions according to the inventionis that they contain large amounts of unpolymerized or relativelyunpolymerized organosilicon compounds, that is to say compoundscomprising one, two or three silicon atoms Thus, it is necessary for thecomposition to contain, relative to the total weight of the composition,at least 0.02% of unpolymerized or relatively unpolymerizedorganosilicon compounds and preferably at least 0.5% by weight, possiblyranging up to 50% by weight.

The content of unpolymerized or relatively unpolymerized organosiliconcompounds according to the invention is determined by the usual analysismethods such as silicon-29 and proton NMR spectroscopy, and bychromatography.

The compositions according to the invention are aqueous compositions.However, it is possible, for example for the use of adjuvants, to add acosolvent such as an alcohol or a ketone, for example ethanol oracetone.

In a known manner, all the compositions of the invention may containadjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, such as oils, waxes or othercommon fatty substances; standard gelling agents and/or thickeners;emulsifiers; moisturizers; emollients; sunscreens; hydrophilic orlipophilic active agents, for instance ceramides; free-radicalscavengers; surfactants; polymers; proteins; bactericides; sequesteringagents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; preserving agents;fragrances; fillers; dyestuffs.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used inthe field under consideration.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional compound(s) added to the composition according to theinvention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associatedwith the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or arenot substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The compositions according to the invention may be used in rinse-out orleave-in mode.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any form that issuitable for topical application, especially in the form of solutions ofthe lotion or serum type; in the form of aqueous gels; in the form ofemulsions obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W)or, conversely, (W/O), of more or less thick liquid consistency such asmore or less unctuous milks and creams.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as hairproducts, especially for holding the hairstyle or for shaping the hair.They may also give the hair a temporary coloration or provide the hairwith good protection against the effects of UV radiation, while at thesame time providing hair holding or fixing properties.

The hair compositions according to the invention are preferably stylingproducts such as hairsetting gels or lotions, blow-drying lotions, andfixing and styling compositions such as lacquers or sprays.

The lotions may be packaged in various forms, especially in vaporizers,in pump-dispenser bottles or in aerosol containers to allow anapplication of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of amousse. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it isdesired to obtain a spray or mousse for fixing or treating the hair.

A subject of the present invention is also the use of the compositionaccording to the invention in a process for treating the hair, in orderto hold and/or color it.

According to one embodiment of this process, the composition is appliedto rinsed or unrinsed hair, preferably in the form of a spray, eitherusing a pump-dispenser bottle or using an aerosol.

After spraying onto the head of hair, the composition is left to act andto dry.

The hair may be placed in the desired shape, either before theapplication or immediately after.

The drying time may be variable and depends on the nature of thecomposition.

After combing, the hair has a very pleasant feel quality.

The invention is illustrated by the examples that follow.

EXAMPLE 1

The formulation below was prepared:

Water-soluble unpolymerized or relatively Composition unpolymerizedsilicon compound Water 1 Sodium N-[(3-trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylene-qs 100 g diaminetriacetate neutralized with HCl (pH 6.9) (supplied bythe company Gelest) (g per 100 g of composition) 10 g (Active material)

Composition 1 is introduced into a container that is fitted with aspraying system of the pump-dispenser bottle type.

Two wigs of 15 g of natural hair are prepared. The hairs are held at theroots on a rubber band and left free over the remainder of the length.

The composition is sprayed onto the first wig (2 g). This wig is thenleft until dry. The other wig, serving as the comparison, is also leftat rest.

The cosmetic properties and in particular the styling effect are noted.

The hairs are then washed with a sodium lauryl ether sulphate shampoo,and then dried again.

The cosmetic properties are noted a second time.

Styling effect Styling effect Wig before washing after washing 1 30 15 20 0 (comparative)

The results show that the application of a composition according to theinvention to the hair gives it a styling effect that is wash-fast.

1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptableaqueous medium, at least 0.02% by weight, relative to the total weightof the composition, of at least one substantially unpolymerized,water-soluble organosilicon compound, the organosilicon compound being asilane having one silicon atom or a siloxane having two or three siliconatoms, the organosilicon compound also having at least one nonbasicsolubilizing chemical function and at least two hydroxyl or hydrolyzablegroups per molecule.
 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein theorganosilicon compound represents at least 0.5% by weight of thecomposition.
 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nonbasicsolubilizing chemical function is a carboxylic acid or its salt, aquaternary ammonium, a sulphonic acid or its salt, a poly(alkyl ether),a polyacrylamide or acrylamide, or a polyol.
 4. The composition of claim1, wherein the hydrolyzable groups are alkoxy, aryloxy or halogengroups.
 5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein theorganosilicon compound has the formula:

in which; R′ represents a halogen or an OR₁ or R₀ group; R″ represents ahalogen or an OR₂ or R′₀ group; R″′ represents a halogen or an OR₃ orR″₀ group; at least two of the groups R′, R″ and R″′ being other thanthe groups R₀, R′₀ and R″₀; R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based group comprising a nonbasic solubilizingchemical function; R₀, R′₀, R″₀, R₁, R₂ and R₃ represent, independentlyof each other, a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, the optional substituentbeing an additional nonbasic solubilizing chemical group; and R₁, R₂ andR₃ may represent, independently of each other, hydrogen.
 6. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1, wherein the organosilicon has the formula:

in which: R″ represents a halogen or an OR₂ group; R′ represents ahalogen or an OR₁ or R₀ group; R″′ represents a halogen or an OR₃ or R″₀group; R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branchedhydrocarbon-based group comprising a nonbasic solubilizing chemicalfunction; R₀, R″₀, R₁, R₂ and R₃ represent, independently of each other,a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based group, the optional substituent being anadditional nonbasic solubilizing chemical group; R₁, R₂ and R₃ mayrepresent, independently of each other, hydrogen; and R″″ represents ahalogen, an OR₄ group or an R″′₀ group; R₅ represents a halogen, an OR₆group or an R″″₀ group; at least one of the groups R″′, R″″ and R₅ beingother than the groups R″₀, R″′₀ and R″″₀; and R₄, R₆, R″′₀ and R″″₀represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, the optional substituentbeing an additional nonbasic solubilizing chemical group; and R₄ and R₆may represent, independently of each other, hydrogen.
 7. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 6, wherein R₁, R₂, R₃, R₄, R₆, R₀, R′₀, R″₀, R″′₀and R″″₀ represent a C₁ to C₁₂ alkyl group, a C₆ to C₁₄ aryl group, a(C₁ to C₈)alkyl(C₆ to C₁₄)aryl group or a (C₆ to C₁₄)aryl(C₁ to C₈)alkylgroup.
 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is in theform of a hair product.
 9. The composition of claim 8, wherein thecomposition is in the form of a hair product for holding the hair or forshaping the hair.